Cold weather start this morning was around 9:00. One of the things I like to try to do on these trips is “eat local.” I was thinking about going via Tuba City and stopping by the Hogan Family Restaurant for some authentic (kinda) Indian food – in the form of their breakfast taco. Imagine breakfast burrito ingredients in an Indian fry bread tortilla folded taco style. They are really good. Their fry bread is some of the best & you can get it as a side by itself (honey & powdered sugar of course) or order fry bread instead of rolls on a regular lunch or dinner entrée.
Also in Tuba City, walking distance from Hogan’s, is the Navajo Code Talker’s museum. It’s a small walk through but very interesting. Many people have said that the battle for Iwo Jima would have been lost without the code talkers. Although the Navajo code talkers of WWII is what you hear the most about, code talking was pioneered by the Cherokee and Choctaw during World War I.
SO – Next time you’re in Tuba City with some time to kill…. I could almost taste my breakfast taco, but that’s going to have to wait, too far out of my way this time around.
Yesterday’s road was mostly twists and turns, today I straightened it out a little; don’t want to wear out the edges of those tires too fast. The Navajo Nation is 27,413 square miles (the size of Ireland or West Virginia) so riding all day and almost never leaving the REZ is not a problem. I have no doubt that since Arizona and New Mexico were the last two continental US states to join the union – that’s where the largest Indian reservations ended up. Arizona has five of the twelve largest Indian reservations and the highest proportion of land allocated to Native American reservations, at 28%.
One thing to consider: Bathrooms are few and FAR between and if you’re looking for a tree or hill to hide behind……Nope. “Always go before you leave”. That’s a Rule.
One thing you get to see on the REZ is unspoiled land & lots of it. I’m no geologist, but it’s pretty obvious to me that this is what’s left from some ancient volcano’s main vent. All the earth is gone and it’s just a pillar of what used to be lava eroding over the years. How many years ago did this thing erupt? Why is all the earth gone? Where on the world was this piece of land when that happened? Thinking about things like this makes you realize that you are such an insignificant part of “time”.
Next stop was Window Rock, AZ. Until 1936, the area was sparsely populated and known by the Navajo only by its ceremonial name Niʼ Ałníiʼgi (“Center of the World”). A reforming Commissioner of Indian Affairs, chose this site to establish the seat of the Navajo Central Agency, the Bureau of Indian Affairs official connection to the nation. His proposal to make the ceremonial name the official name met with resistance, and Navajos soon ridiculed it as “ni ałnííʼgóó” (~ “into your middle (parts)”). Rough translation: Up your Ass.
Due to this, the Bureau of Indian Affairs chose the name of the major local landmark, the rock-with-hole-through-it for the Indian agency site. It was rendered in English as “Window Rock”. Pretty interesting back story. Without further ado – Window Rock.
Window Rock is right on the Arizona, New Mexico border. The northbound road out of town crosses into New Mexico about 5 miles north of town. There are no signs to let you know you have left AZ or that you’re now in NM. I guess the Navajo figure you are still inside the Navajo Nation, state boundaries don’t matter.
The scenery improved with the road. If you look closely you can see another little window in the rock just over the top of those bushes. Sandstone erodes in such interesting ways.
Now, I’ve seen a lot of things but this is a new one for me. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? I’m just north of Navajo, New Mexico. All of the surrounding sandstone is red – what makes this sandstone green? You can see the red cliffs behind – Very Interesting……..
The Zuni Mountains lie along the northwest edge of New Mexico. It’s still on the REZ so there is a lack of signage but my GPS said 8,800 feet and there was still snow on the ground. I was NOT dressed for this so one quick picture and I was glad to be going down the eastern side.
This isolated rock formation is Shiprock. It’s name is derived from the peak’s resemblance to an enormous 19th-century clipper ship. It’s located in the Four Corners area and was the center of the area occupied by the Ancient Pueblo People, often referred to as the Anasazi. It is the most prominent landmark in northwestern New Mexico and you can see it for many miles in every direction.
As you can imagine, this is a rock climbers dream. The idea of climbing Shiprock is repugnant to many Navajo people. It was first climbed in 1938 and last climbed in 1970. Serious injuries to three climbers caused the Navajo Nation to ban rock climbing not only on Shiprock but all over the Navajo Nation on monoliths, spires and within tribal parks under the jurisdiction of Navajo Parks & Recreation. The Navajo Nation announced that the ban was “absolute, final and unconditional”.
This isn’t the end of my ride but it’s close enough. A great day riding around the REZ and some time to just relax with little to no other traffic and vast areas of unmolested mother nature. Except tor the asphalt of course, for which I am grateful.